Solar System Lithophane Planet Lamps - ⌀75mm

Boost MeIf you like my models, please consider boosting me. This really helps me a lot to mitigate the design and development costs of these models.

Attention

This upload does not contain any STL files. Due to the upload size limitations of Maker World and the large file sizes for high quality lithophane STL's (200-300MB each), I can only provide print profiles containing the STL files.

 

Introduction

This model is part of my Solar System Lithophane Lamp Series. As of now, all planets and several moons of the solar system are available as lithophane lamps and in three different sizes: ⌀205mm, ⌀150mm and ⌀75mm (this upload). I am already working on a ⌀295mm version for large scale printers such as the H2D and a ⌀25mm version for 0.2mm nozzles and Resin printers.

If you like my work, please consider supporting me. Your support will help me to make more models available for free. https://ko-fi.com/fritzpeppone. If you like to use my models commercially, please obtain a commercial license on Makerworld. The commercial license includes all of my models except those that are based on the intellectual property of others (e.g. the GTA V map lamps) or remixes (e.g. the Death Star or Phobos lamps).

MembershipBecome a member to use my models commercially!

Requirements

The regular lamp size is ~ 75mm x 75mm x 70mm. There is also a “large” version in ~ 100mm x 100mm x 95mm available (so far only for the sun). They should print fine on all FDM printers and on most SLA printers. You will need around 30g-40g of Filament (preferably PLA or PLA+) for the regular sized lamp.

The lamps are mounted to their base with a M28x2 metric thread. The idea for the thread is from the Lithophane Moon Lamp with wide Screw Base by The Quicksilver. I am providing multiple different illumination options that all use the same thread. Choose the lamp of your liking and match it with any illumination of your liking. All compatible lamp bases are listed below. You may either need a standard E14 socket with a small LED, a Keystone socket, USB LED stick and a USB cable, an Ikea Solvinden fairy light, a tea light or a magnetic button cell PCB with LEDs.

Print Settings

There are only a few settings you should tweak in the slicer to print the lamps. 

• Print in PLA or PLA+
• Recommended layer height: 0.12mm
• Use the Arachne Perimeter Generator for more precise printing with better details
• If you use Arachne, set the minimum line width to 75% to avoid holes!
• Set wall count to 7-8 to obtain a solid lamp
• Set number of top layers to 10
• Set seam position to aligned
• If necessary, ctivate Brim (Outer Brim Only) and set the Brim width to 5-10 mm
• No Support required! The lamps print perfectly fine without support. All lamp bases come with in-built snap off supports (where required).

Be aware, that slicing and printing may take a very long time. The STL files can take up to 10 min. to slice. 

 

For Bambu Studio users: Bambu Studio seems to struggle with the Arachne Perimeter Generator. If you are unable to slice a lamp with Arachne, use the Classic Perimeter Generator.

 

This is not a SpeedBoatRace print! Use conservative print speed settings to avoid artefacts! It's totally fine if your print takes one or two days to finish.

Filament, resin and light source

Filament matters. A lot! Depending on your filament choice, your lamp may have more or less contrast or a warmer or cooler color temperature. You can also change the outcome by choosing light sources with different wattage or color temperature. Since the lamps are very small, you can also print them in resin. The picture below shows different outcomes depending on your filament type:

All of the four Panels above were printed with different white PLA/PLA+ filaments but illuminated with the same 1W LED bulb. 

Before starting a multi-day print, I recommend printing the Solar System Lithophane Calibration Panel to test how your print will turn out. You are also by no means limited to white lights and filaments. Check the makes below to get inspired what color and light choices other makers made.

My personal favourite filament and the one I used for all lamps in my photos is Filament PM PLA+ White.

Your light source also matters! While you can use 1W bulbs with the E14 Socket, other illumination solutions such as the fairy lights have a way lower wattage. Filament PM PLA+ for example is still a good option for 1W bulbs but a very poor option for the fairy lights. Test your filament with the light source you intend to use!

Planet Lamps

The list below contains all (Dwarf)Planets of the solar system and the sun, turned into lithophane lamps. All of the lamps below are original creations. All planets and moons are available in a version where the hole is at the south pole (north pole up) and where the hole is at the north pole (south pole up). For hanging lamps, I recommend the south pole up version, for standing lamps the north pole up version.

The Sun (also available in a larger size)
Mercury
Venus Atmosphere
Venus Surface
Earth Satellite
Earth Bathymetry
Earth Fishworld
Earth Political
Earth Political Bathymetry
Earth Topography
Mars
Jupiter
Saturn
Uranus
Neptune
Pluto

Moon Lamps

The list below contains several moons of the solar system, turned into lithophane lamps. All of the lamps below are original creations. For hanging lamps, I recommend the south pole up version, for standing lamps the north pole up version.

The Moon
Io
Callisto
Europa
Ganymede

 

Other Lamps

The category "other Lamps" so far only contains two models. The first is the death star lamp which is a direct remix of Olivier Popiers' Starwars deathstar lithophane lamp. Here, I first scaled down the lamp while maintaining the original wall thickness, added the M28 thread and also indented the Death Star's ray. 

The seond model, Universe Expansion, shows a model of the big bang, as extrapolated by cosmic background radiation. The idea for this model was suggested by Printables user Markus and is based on image data by ESA, showing the cosmic microwave background of our universe.

Death Star
Universe Expansion

Illumination Options

Printing the Planet or Moon of your choice is only a part of creating your own bauble. You'll also need an illumination for your Planet or Moon. I am providing several different options, all with a matching M28x2 thread. All of the models below will work for all of the Planets and Moons. Depending on which illumination option you choose, you will need different hardware for assembly. You will find a detailed BOM and assembly instructions below. The recommended option (especially for christmas baubles) is the Magnetic Switch Button Cell option, using the Y Shape LED Light with Magnetic Control Switch.

Links to shops are only suggestions on where you can find parts. I am not connected to any of the linked vendors and don't endorse them. Links are also supposed to show you how the required parts are called and look like.

Some lamp bases use snap-off support. The supports look like small ring segments, tabs or cylinders that should be removable with very little force and should leave you with a good surface. They are only tested with PLA/PLA+ filament. Using other filaments may make support removal more difficult. Also your layer height should not exceed 0.2mm as this is the separation distance of the support objects.

Tealight Socket
Compatible with the Bambu LED Tea Light Candles. This type of candle seems to be generic, so others may fit, too. I cannot guarantee that all LED tealights of the same style will fit. Pros and Cons: + Easy to assemble and easy to use - Low light output + Very cheap and readily available light source - Most LED tealights flicker + No wiring required   BOM: 1x LED Tea Light Candle with an outer diameter of ~37.2mm Printed Parts: The tea light sockets already include snap-off supports that worked very well for me. Try these first. If the built-in supports do not work for you, I also included files without supports (*_no_support). 1x 00_Mobile_Tea_Light_Socket Assembly: Remove support Open the LED tea light at the bottom and remove it from the housing (pry it open with tweezers, a credit card, a guitar pick or something similar) Insert the LED electronics into the tea light socket  The electronics should snap in the socket Screw the socket into the planet/moon of your choice
Generic Fairy Light Socket
Compatible with almost all fairy lights out there. Easy snap-fit assembly, perfect for fairy lights. Maximum supported lamp diameter: 12.8mm Pros and Cons: + Easy to assemble and easy to use                                                                               - Medium to low light output, depending on your fairy lights                                         + Compatible with almost all off-the-shelf fairy lights - Disassembly may not be possible without breaking the lid                                   + No wiring required   BOM: 1x Generic fairy light with a maximum lamp diameter of 12.8mm Printed Parts: The generic sockets already include snap-off supports that worked very well for me. Try these first. If the built-in supports do not work for you, I also included files without supports (*_no_support). 1x 01_mobile_generic_socket 1x 01_mobile_generic_socket_lid Assembly: Insert the LED through the hole in the socket Guide one cable through the left channel, one through the right channel Clip on the lid (watch out for the cable channels) Screw the socket into the bulb of your choice
Magnetic Switch Button Cell
This option uses a small button cell PCB that switches on and off magnetically. Since there is no wiring required and the light can be switched on and off contactless, this is the perfect option for Christmas baubles. Simply touch the top of the socket with a magnet to turn the light on or off. Pros and Cons: + Contactless switching, no wires - Batteries need to be replaced regularly + Perfect solution for Christmas baubles - Medium light output + Support for colored LED PCBs planned - Depends heavily on your printer's bridging capabilities and tolerances BOM: 1x Magnetic Switch Button Cell, 18mm - Bambu Maker's Supply or 1x Magnetic Switch Button Cell, 20mm - from Aliexpress PCB 1 (D20) or PCB 2 (D20) Printed Parts: The battery sockets already include snap-off supports that worked very well for me. Try these first. If the built-in supports do not work for you, I also included print files with standard support generated by the slicer. Additionally, there is a version with a flat base available so you can place the lamp somewhere, for example as a nightlight. 1x 01_mobile_battery_socket_D18.3MF or 1x 01_mobile_battery_socket_D20.3MF You may choose between four different plates. First, you must choose wether you want the socket to have a hanger (for baubles) or a flat surface (e.g. for nightlights). Then, for each version you must choose wether you want to print with snap-off supports or standard supports.   Assembly: If you encounter failing bridges, clean the socket until the drawer fits in easily Place the PCB inside the drawer Insert the drawer into the socket with the LED visible on the thread-side Screw the socket into your lamp. This also fixes the drawer in place
E14 Socket
The easiest, most straightforward illumination option. The threads on E14 sockets matches the lamps threads. Pros and Cons: + Versatile, use any bulb of your choice, colored bulbs work as well - Socket protrudes from the lamp + High light output - Wiring mains voltage required if you want to connect multiple lamps BOM: 1x E14 socket with threads and strain relief 1x small 1W E14 bulb (usually sold as fridge LED), max. diameter ~26mm, max. length 50-60mm - available for example on Amazon, colored bulbs work as well Printed Parts: No print required Assembly: Simply screw the socket into the lamp. The thread tolerances are tight, so screw it in carefully. You may want to check out my Wago T- and L-connectors to create a custom fairy light.
Ikea Solvinden
This option is modeled to be compatible with Ikea Solvinden fairy lights. The locking mechanism is identical with the Ikea one. Keep in mind, that the light output of those small LEDs is very low. Choose a very transluscent filament with this illumination option! Pros and Cons: + Convenient solution for long fairy lights - Depends heavily on your printers tolerances, x-y compensation may be required + Battery powered - Visible wiring + Simple assembly via a locking mechanism - Very dim light, translucent filament required BOM: 1x Ikea Solvinden fairy light Printed Parts: The Ikea solvinden sockets already include snap-off supports that worked very well for me. Try these first. If the built-in supports do not work for you, I also included files without supports. The .3MF file contains a plate for each option. 1x 02_mobile_solvinden_socket Assembly: This socket is a 1:1 copy of the Ikea locking mechanism. Screw the socket into your lamp, insert the LED and turn it to lock it in place.
Keystone USB
The final option allows you to power your light via USB. This may be a very good option for night lights. You can also modify the base to incorporate the lamps in other designs.  While the USB light seems like a bad option because it only features LEDs on one side, it works absolutely fine. Surprisingly, the illumination is very homogeneous, probably because the filament is reflective and diffuses the light inside the lamp. Pros and Cons: + Simple power supply via USB - Very little space available for the keystone module, tolerances are tight + Off the shelf components - It may be hard to remove the keystone module from the socket without damaging either one + High light output - USB-A to USB-A cable required   - Inconvenient if you want to illuminate multiple lamps BOM: 1x Keystone module USB-A to USB-A - available on Amazon and in electrical stores 1x USB LED stick, max. length ~50mm - available on Amazon 1x USB-A to USB-A cable Printed Parts: As with all of the other illumination options, the keystone socket also comes with snap-off supports and traditional supports. Choose the support that works best for you by switching between the two plates. 1x 03_mobile_keystone_socket Assembly: Insert the keystone module clip-first into the socket. There is not much space available, so it may be a tight fit Insert the USB stick into the keystone socket and test it Screw the socket assembly into your lamp

 

Ideas for using the lamps

In addition to using the lamps as Christmas baubles or night lights, you may also use them for baby mobiles or for fairy lights. I'd love to see your ideas and creations. Please share your pictures of your makes and ideas.

 

Other Models

There are also two larger version of this Lamp Collection available: the Solar System Lithophane Planet Lamps - ⌀150mm and the Solar System Lithophane Planet Lamps - ⌀205mm. 

Another rather new project have been working on are the Minimalist City Map Lithophane Lamps. Check it out!

 

Acknowledgements

A big shout out and thanks to:

• moonournation: to my knowledge, the Lithophane Moon Lamp OP, the original creator who came up with the idea.
• The QuickSilver: to my knowledge, the first person to add a thread to the moon lamp.
• Olivier Popiers: The creator of the Death Star Lamp I remixed.
• Markus for suggesting the Universe Expansion Model and ESA for providing a equirectangular projection of the cosmic microwave background

Changelog

• 12.12.2024 - initial upload
• 20.12.2024 - added links to source files
• 21.12.2024 - added link to Wago T-connectors
• 22.01.2025 - added the Battery Socket D20 and the Generic Socket
• 24.03.2025 - extensive update. Added lamps for Callisto, Ganymede, Europa, Earth Bathymetry, Earth Topography, Earth Political Bathymetry, Death Star and Universe Expansion. Added upside down versions for ALL lamps. New base option, compatible with Bambu LED Tea Lights.
• 06.04.2025 - removal of all links to and all source file uploads as the work to maintain them simply got too much. Message me if you require source files.