This arm uses two F623 bearings, which are usually used to attach a drag chain to Stealthburner (which you don't need anymore because you are switching to an umbilical set-up). You can use one or two piano wires up to 1mm with this arm. I'm using two 0.5mm wires (simply because I already had the 0.5mm wire on hand). The arm holds 50mm of the wires.
BOM:
- Two F623 bearings.
- One M3x16 socket head screw
- One M3 washer (important!)
- One M3 Nyloc nut
- One M3x8 socket head screw (for mounting to a T-nut in the extrusion)
Printing:
Standard Voron printing profile: 4 walls, 40% infill, etc. The models are already in the correct orientation for printing, don't rotate them!
Assembly:
- Insert two bearings into the support bracket.
- Insert the nut into the swing arm (the nut is a very tight fit by design, you'll have to use force to insert it).
- Insert M3x16 screw through the two bearings.
- Add an M3 washer between the bearings and the swing arm. This is an important step to prevent the swing arm from touching the flange of the bottom bearing.
- Tighten the M3x16 screw until the arm stops moving freely. Then back off ¼ of a turn or so, until the arm swings freely in the bearings, but so that there is no play.
- Drop a T-nut or a roll-in nut into the extrusion and attach the arm to the top of the frame.
- Don't use side cutters to cut the piano wire, because the piano wire is about as hard as the steel jaws of the side cutters, and will ruin the edge. I use a rotary tool with a diamond burr to cut piano wire.
- This arm works well with a PUG at the toohead end:
https://www.printables.com/model/378567-pug-parametric-umbilical-gland
Antipode
