CORE One Trellis

I wanted to combine the clean, technical design of the CORE One with wild organic shapes, so I decided to print a trellis that helps the plants take over my printer. I'll admit that my nasturtiums aren't quite big enough for that yet, but maybe they'll get there.

This part is designed to go in the front left corner (printer’s point of view), but since the CORE One’s frame is symmetrical, you can just mirror it to fit the other corner.

There are two different techniques you can use to attach the panels to your printer.

Magnets (easy assembly)

Use this version if you don't want to fiddle around with screws inside your printer.

Materials

6 magnets: 6 mm diameter, 3 mm height

Assembly

Insert the magnets into the holes at the back of the panels (three each). This process might require some force. If you can't get them in by hand, use a larger object to push (or carefully hammer) them in. The fit is tight on purpose to avoid having to use glue.

Then, just stick the two parts together. This should also not require any glue. After that, the part is ready to go onto the CORE One and should just click into place.

End of Life

There are small grooves underneath the magnets through which they can be ejected. A small screwdriver should give you enough leverage to pop the magnets out. The magnets can be used in a new project, and the panels can be recycled cleanly.

Screws (solid connection)

Use this option if:

• the plants you are planning to use are very heavy

• you're likely to move or reorient your printer

• you don't have the right magnets at hand

Materials

6 screws and nuts: M3x8 or M3x12

Assembly

Firstly, the six rivets along the upper left edge of the right side need to be removed. After that, you can continue by putting the two printed pieces together and loosely attaching them to the side of the printer. Now, insert screws in the places formerly taken by the rivets and put on a nut from the inside. That last part can be a bit annoying since it involves accurately placing nuts behind the linear and guide rails without seeing anything. Don't over-tighten the screws! Aseptically, the two at the top since they might crack the acrylic window.

I'm not sure if printer vibrations will loosen the connection over time, but I’ve seen nothing getting loose after a few test prints. If you encounter any problems in that regard, please let me know.

Printing

All of the parts are printable without supports using the orientation they are uploaded in! Make sure that your material can handle some bridging, though.

I've added a filament change at 2,5 mm height to achieve a floating impression of the front mesh. If you don't want to change filaments mid-print, just delete that pause in your slicer.