June 12, 2022
Description
The tag has a "main area", where you can place the texts, text backgrounds (which are rounded, chamfered or straight-corner rectangles or n-gons to serve as color background box), imported files and inserts for lamination (see below) and an optional recycling symbol. Optionally, you can add a frame that serves as a margin; this can be shorter, taller or of the same height as the main area, and each side can be configured independently. There are also optional slots for carrying/wearing the tag that can spread across both main area and frame.
All these elements have plenty of configuration options.
To get you started and playing with the tag ASAP, it's suggested you do this:
You're all set and ready to go. When you open the OpenSCAD file, you'll have all the presets used in the pictures loaded, and the files to import where they should be. Maybe you'll be missing some fonts for some presets; I've used mostly common fonts, and all fonts used are AFAIK free to download for personal use.
The parameters have a descriptive text in the OpenSCAD file, so we won't go into much detail here; you'll see that many parameters are repeated across the different elements, which makes sense (after all, everything has X and Y coordinates, f.i.), but also lets us give a general description.
The parameters that you can find are mainly:
You'll notice that there are many parameters that do not use absolute values (egr., "5mm") but rather ratios or relative values, like "0.5" or "2mm from the border". This may look confusing at first, but it's actually for user-friendliness: it's likely that you'll make some tries, reworking and modification of things when working with the tag. Using relative values keeps the ratios consistent, and avoids you a lot of work (and possible errors) of introducing new values every time you change a thing.
It's important to take into account the order of precedence of the different elements. The process is as follows:
This allows you, for instance, to add an outline to the text making a positive raised background, and a negative one slightly smaller, set at the z where the positive background ends (its z-pos plus its depth), with both at the same x and y position. The same technique can be used with texts, using their offset parameter (the negative text needs an offset smaller than that of the positive-outline; offsets can be negative). Make sure that the difference between offsets is something that can be printed (i.e., at least one extrusion width).
Likely, you'll have some fields of text with either a fixed length (egr. “Hello!”) or a maximum length (a count of some sort), and others that may be of any length (like the name, that may be anything from “Chad” to someone in the succession line to the Crown of Spain). It might save you some work to see how long will be the longest of those fixed or maximum length fields, and enter it as the parameter “Text box reference length”, in the “Main parameters” panel.
This is due to the way the automatic base text size function works. It checks which size is a closest fit for each text, counting a box that is as wide as the main area, and as tall as 1/5th of the main area depth (Y-axis), and a minimum text length (the “Text box reference length”).
This may sound very convoluted (and maybe is), but works surprisingly well. Setting the reference to the maximum fixed/limited length allows you to have a common base size for all those text boxes, without having to resize them because one suddenly doesn't fit where it should; and also, this helps to automatically resize the texts if you change the main area size, which is a time-saver (the boxes will keep the ratio relative to the main area).
Anyway, don't worry much about it. Text sizes can be scaled, for one; and also the console outputs the real size of each of the used texts, so you can match any to any other. The parameter just will save you time and allow you to use the same scaling for a whole bunch of texts. It won't be long until you've got used to it.
SVG files have some limitations and a lot of quirks for importing to OpenSCAD (check out the documentation on importing files to OpenSCAD. It's far better if the viewBox of the SVG file has the reference point at 0,0; otherwise, the scaling and repositioning won't work as intended. And even if it's at 0,0, they may not work yet as intended; you might need to do some modification to the SVG file, and having the reference point at 0,0 makes it easier to know where to start and what to do.
DXF files work in a different way, and it's better if they're centered or with the 0,0 point at the same spot (bottom left) as the SVG files. Fudge factors have been added, so you can position files theoretically outside the main area to compensate scaling and positioning problems; you can even flip/mirror the imported file using a negative scale.
If you want to check where is an imported file that you don't see, uncheck the "Trim files to main area" checkbox in "Main parameters" panel and set the file to "Raised" style temporarily if it was engraved, until you've placed it where it belongs.
You've surely seen some examples of this technique, though it's AFAIK mostly unused in 3D printing (with some very specific exceptions), yet is perfectly possible. Lamination or encapsulation means, basically, wrapping something in plastic; in our case, likey a 2D print (paper, cardboard, cardstock). Surely you'll have some laminated document, ID card, picture...
The technique is simple: we make a hole in our model, pause the print, position the cut paper with the help of a bit of glue stick, and just print with transparent filament over it (or under it, if it's two-sided, or facing the bed). Ironing, especially the still experimental "all solid surfaces", works well for transparency, and usually just a couple of layers is enough to give clarity and firmness to the encapsulation.
So, it's basically the very same that's been done and done with magnets and nuts, just with a printed paper, clear filament and a bit of slicer magic for best results. It works better with small inserts; otherwise, the effects of bridging are visible and detract from the result.
Which also means that you can use the inserts to put magnets and have a magnetic tag. For round magnets, set all the corner radius to half the magnet diameter, and width and depth to the magnet diameter; don't leave any clearance at 0, and use Superglue instead of glue stick. Hey, you can even add nuts, too; just set the "precision" to 6, and add another insert that goes all the way to the bed (layer 0) or a cylindric negative volume modifier in PrusaSlicer for the screw.
This is something I've been playing with lately (expect a specific parametric encapsulation tool from me soon), and the technique it's still experimental, but it was too promising and too cool to not include it. From my experiments, it works best when the insert is flush with the surface, even if it protrudes a bit (say, some 0.05mm); paper, after all, is compressible and the extruding nozzle squishes both insert and filament making a very solid, full layer. Yes, it would be easier to just use transparent film, but this allows for more control and using color changes and shapes on the insert. See this in action with the Printables “profile cards”, and some more notes below.
This technique, AFAIK, is due to Devin Montes of the Make Anything channel, and allows for the use of several colors in the first layer or couple of layers without using an MMU. You simply print the insert(s), remove the purge line and skirt, and print the main object on top of that; this will have the negative space for the inserts, and also a bit of clearance to avoid smearing. Be careful with loose strings.
The file uses the Recymbol library to make the recycling symbol, so you should have it installed for that. If you don't, the program will just throw an error and the symbol won't be available, and that's all. To install the library, just download the file library.scad from here at Printables, go to your OpenSCAD library folder (File->Show Library Folder if you don't know where it is), create a folder there named Recymbol, and drag the library.scad file there. That's all.
The text files All_presets.txt has all the presets used for the displayed models (a preset is a set of parameters, see the bundled OpenSCAD tutorial) in JSON format, as used by OpenSCAD. If you feel like it, you may edit your own JSON file and add only the presets of the provided file that you want; this is, though, only advisable for users who know the JSON syntax.
You can select modifiers for basically everything, except the inserts for print on print (which are separate objects, and thus modifiers are not needed). Modifiers have a self-centering, non-printable fillet, so they fall into place when set at X, Y 0,0 and clicking the “drop to bed” button at the right of the Z coordinate in PrusaSlicer.
There are two variants: “engraved” and “raised”. The engraved one is an “almost encapsulation”, as it uses the insert elements but with a face thickness of 0, meaning that the opening is flush with the main area (BTW, that's why there are some previewing artifacts, depending on the view angle). The “raised” uses full encapsulation, in some backgrounds that hold the inserts. Both use the same size of badges and avatar picture: 18x22mm for the badges (width x height), and a circle of 50mm diameter; so, the cutting templates are the same for both. Cutting templates, as well as the modifiers used in the 3mf files, can be generated just by selecting which (or all) in the “Object type” combo box in the first “Main parmeters” panel.
You can download the images of your badges from your profile page. Use whatever software you feel comfortable with to resize them; I've used Libre Office Writer, as it's a good enough tool for the job and gives good control of the page layout; make sure you're printing the images at 100% the size you've set them.
Important: You will see that the pause to add the inserts is at the first “solid” layer over them, (the color change and print pauses are set after a layer change, but before the print actually starts). Change the filament to the transparent one after adding the inserts and before resuming the print if you are using the 3mf file.
It is worth noting that all the prints in the pictures have been made with a 0.6 nozzle. It may lead to some smearing; in some cases, the results can be improved adding a single layer modifier with 0 perimeters (which avoids many of the holes that may be present); but obviously a smaller nozzle will be noticeably better.
Dry erase markers: One fun little-known fact about ironing is that you can use dry markers on properly ironed 3D-printed surfaces. Whilst on regular surfaces the ink gets into the crevasses of the surface, the flattening provided by ironing gives us a fully flat, nonporous surface over which dry-erase markers work perfectly. Use the modifier for the full area with the setting "top surface only" to use them. If you need to fine-tune your ironing settings (which will be needed, f.i., if you're using something other than a 0.4 nozzle), you can check my ironing calibration matrix. Anyway, if you're new to ironing, you should check the Prusa knowledgebase article on the technique.
Lamination positioning. Setting the insert placement can be tricky, as they're not seen. Set them to a face thickness of 0, and you'll be positioning them just so they cut the main area. Position them where you want, and then set them at their right face thickness.
Main area sizing and backgrounds. Unless you're trying to reproduce a specific tag model, it's better to stick to known, integer ratios of width and height for the main area (for instance, width is double the depth, or 2:1 ratio). Backgrounds are relative to allow for automatic resizing and to better fit with text areas (that's what they are intended for), so it may be tricky to make, say, a circular background. But if you stick to ratios in your main design, you can also apply those same ratios to the relative sizing of backgrounds. So, for a main ratio of 2:1, a background with ratio 1:2 will be circular in shape. Tip: If you can, use ratios in the golden sequence, such as 2:1, 3:2, 5:3, 8:5 and so on. 3 is posed to give some rounding errors, but most likely they will be negligible.
Slots. Thin-strut T-slot shaped slots can be pinched directly on clothes; they need to be somewhat long and deep (6x2mm or more). Make them round if you want to hang them from a button (round slots can work too). Sometimes a n-gonal shape works well enough; for instance, triangle slots are "pointing outwards", so you can make them such that their side is wider than a button; you'll be able to pass the button through it, but it will hang from the upper vertex. Any odd-sided n-gon will do. You can also overlap slightly two slots to make a "keyhole hanger" shape. For instance, make both top slots rounded (not t-slot), one of (say) 6x6, the other 3 wide and 6 deep, and at 3mm above the bigger, round one.
Polygonal shapes. Make the main corner radius half of the height or width, and choose a very low precision to have n-gonal sides. For a regular n-gon, make the height and width equal, and set the main corner radius to half of that. Same goes for the frame corner radius.
Stand-up. If you set the border thickness to 1.5mm (either by the main thickness with no frame, or with a frame side that's 1.5mm thick) you may use my token stand-ups to make the name tag… well, stand up. There are more than 1500 options to choose from for a 1.5mm slot!
Inner frame: You can use a raised and an engraved background to make an "inner frame". Just make the engraved background smaller than the raised one, and place them in the same place. Note that first all raised elements are joined, and from the whole union the negative elements are subtracted (so for nesting several, you'll have to resort to importing a file).
Gradient: Just as the "background outline" and "inner frame" tricks above, you can play with offsets to make a bit of a gradient. Make three texts in the same place, same size, same font; only the first will be, say, 0.4 tall and with a 0.8 offset; the second, 0.8 tall and 0.4 offset; and the third, 1.2 tall with no offset. Change colors at each 0.4 z interval; with darkest on base and lightest on top, you will make a "glow" effect. Or, use translucent colors to mix them. Check the “Fire emblem” model, that demonstrates this technique.
Non-square card: Yes, by default the main area is square(-ish). But there is a way to make it non-square-shaped: importing a negative file. You will need an SVG (or DXF) that has the same ratio as your "card", and it's a negative of the shape. You can use more than one file. Take notice of the SVG import notes in the OpenSCAD instructions. Make it as deep as the card (or more) and set is as a difference, or negative (engraved). Be careful that the texts don't go past the limits of the file-trimmed card, as they won't be trimmed by it. See the order of execution above: this is to allow for some SVG/DXF-shaped "holes" in the card to be filled with text (which require to trim first, and then add the text). The provided business card for Mike Jagged (lead ringer of The Strolling Crones) demonstrates this technique.
Interface: There is more info on using OpenSCAD as a 3D model making app in the bundled tutorial, but just let's remind you that once you're familiar with the customizer controls, it will be better to select the "Hide Details" option in the customizer top combo box to better navigate the panels, as there are many parameters with detailed descriptions.
Print-on-print: The print-on-print options are (deliberately) more limited than those for the "top" side, which is intended to be the face side. Its main use is to add "internal use" notes. For instance, if you have several types of attendees to an event (like guests, VIPs, speakers, & so) you can use the back to add the guest type in a BIG font size, which will help on sorting the cards; that's why logos (imported files) are also allowed. Or you can add simply a "WRONG SIDE" legend. But having, say, backgrounds for the print-on-print texts is simply overkill; it's just easier to use the z-based color change to have nice effects.
Easter egg: Oh, you've read this far? Well, you deserve a reward! There is a little easter egg hidden in all this heap of files. Want a hint? Oh, actually is just a bit of tRivia…
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
Xavier Faraudo
