Tamiya #56020 Leopard 2A6 Idler Wheel Support

Idler Wheel Support for a Tamiya #56020 Leopard 2A6 to help against the force of the Tracks pulling them back.

Made to work together with 3rd Party Track Tensioner like the AFV-Modellbau ones but may also work with the kit supplied ones.

BOM ( besides the 3D Printed Parts ):

• 2x M3x40mm metal Spacers like these
  ( you'll be needing ones that can have a screw going through their entire length )
• 2x M3x45mm Socket Head Cap Screws
• 2x M3x20mm Socket Head / Button Head Cap Screws ( optional! Used during installation )
• 2x M3 Washers
• 4x M2x10mm Socket Head Cap Screws ( or up to 12mm )
• 4x M2 Heat Set Inserts like these ( they should fit into 3.8mm holes )
• Plastic Glue like UHU Allplast

Installation:

1. Print the parts with a 0.2mm Layer Height, 4 Perimeters and 40% Infill.
   Parts are already oriented for maximum parts strength.
2. Check the clearances are right and if not start sanding!
   - M3x40mm Spacers ( usually 5mm OD ) fitting into the Base Part cavity
   - Cap Part fitting into the Base Part
3. Drill out the M2 Holes ( the Cap Parts have Blind Holes for printability )
4. Insert the M2 Heat Set Inserts into the Base Part from the bottom.
   ( you'll be needing a Soldering Iron for that )
5. I'd suggest using the 40mm Spacer itself as an alignment guide while gluing in the 3D Printed Base Part - To ensure the Spacer being aligned perpendicular to the Hull I've included a cylindrical Alignment Jig Part which when placed on the outside of the hull can be used to pull the M3x40mm Spacer against the AFV-Modellbau Brass Part that sits on the inside of the Hull automatically aligning it and the Base Part using the M3x20mm Screw:
   M3x40mm Spacer ⬅ M3 Washer ⬅ Brass Part ⬅ Hull ⬅ Alignment Jig Part ⬅ M3x20mm Screw
   ( don't skip on the M3 Washer between the Spacer and Brass Part! )
6. Loosely assemble the stack together, add glue to the bottom of the Base Part, place it into the Hull with the Spacer resting in the cavity, tighten M3x20mm Screw which will automatically align everything into position.
7. Press Base Part against Hull to ensure proper contact.
   Let the Base Part bond with the Hull according to the Manufacturers recommendation.
8. Remove the M3x20 Screw and remove the Spacer from the Setup.
9. On my Spacers both ends were threaded but the center - while hollow - was narrower thus requiring to be drilled out using a 3mm Drill… You'll want to Drill one side and the narrower center part out thus allowing for the M3x45mm SHCS to go through the entirety of the Spacer.
10. You can now install the actual Tensioner ( Ball Hex Head Key will be of great help ):
    M3x45mm SHCS ➡ M3x40mm Spacer ➡ M3 Washer ➡ Brass Part ➡ Hull ➡ Brass Tensioner
    ( again! - Don't skip on the M3 Washer between the Spacer and Brass Part! )
11. Install the M2x10mm SHCS to secure the M3x40mm Spacer into the Base Part cavity using the Cap Part.