Creality K1, K1c & K1 Max Door Hinges Geared Print in Place

Why you need this:

This is a beautiful print in place set of hinges that will enable your door to open completely. The geared hinge is better design choice because the two pivot points can hug the chamfered frame with a tighter profile.

Will these fit your K1, K1c or K1 Max?

Yes, But choose the correct files to print.  Measure the distance between the screws in the corners of the side panels. The original K1 and the K1 max were about 65 mm (~2.75 inch) apart.  

The K1c (and newer K1) those screws are about 20 mm (~¾ of an inch) apart.

BOM (Bill of Materials):

• Printed parts

• 4x M3 10 mm screws

• 4x M3 14 mm screws

• 4x M3 Nylon Lock nuts (or M3 nuts and LocTite)

• Tape (I used Gorilla Tape but blue painters tape should work.)

Print instructions:

These hinges need a well-tuned printer.  Your XY print tolerance is VERY important.  I suggest you test your printer, filament and settings on this tolerance test piece.  I have provided two sets of print files that are designed with a 0.2 mm and 0.1 mm air gap between the moving parts. On request I will publish other variants.

• Material is your choice.  

  • I tested PLA, ASA and PETG. PETG was most likely to get stuck during the print and break. 

  • Many other users have used ASA, ABS and PLA with great results.  Others have used PETG with mixed results.  (See comments & makes for examples.)

• Use three or more perimeters.

• Support material is not required. hard to believe but it’s true. 

• Use small layer height 0.2 mm recommended.

• Infill - Gyroid 15% or more for the hinges and 50% or more for the Nut trap.

• Set your filament “Extrusion Multiplier” a little low.  95% (.95) is usually good.

• Use "Classic" Wall/perimeter generator (required.  See details below.)

• I used a .6 mm nozzle.

Classic Wall/Perimeter Generator:

User k1-801 discovered that PrusaSlicer and Cura have an issue that causes the parts of the hinge to weld together in several places. He suggests you can avoid the issue by using Classic slice algorithm instead of the new Archane. 

Quality print is key!  

Here are pictures of an early prototype (blue PETG) that printed as maximum speed on the K1 max.  Calibration was disabled so it didn’t turn out that great.  Notice wavy walls.  Those caused the parts to fuse together and they broke.  The next pictures were printed slower (grey PLA) and they turned out great.

Assembly instructions:

Disassemble the Stock door:

1. Remove the Door

   1. Remove the two screws holding the lower metal hinge into place.

   2. Firmly grab the door and lift.  The lower hinge will slide forward and fall out.

   3. Lower the door to remove it from the upper hinge.

2. Remove stock hinges

   1. Carefully lay the door on a flat surface.

   2. Remove the screws to remove the stock hinges.  

   3. KEEP the small liners.  You will reuse these to protect the glass from coming into contact with the M3 bolts.

Reassembly:

1. Work the hinges loose so they can move freely.  You may notice that the teeth from the gears have welded together in some spots.  This looks like poop but it doesn't affect the function of the hinge.

2. Trim any print defects that could put pressure on the glass.

   1. In this picture you can see a few print defects and how I sanded them flat.

3. Add tape to the hinges and the backs of the Nut Traps.

   1. Tape is optional. It helps protect the glass

   2. Use a blade to cut the holes for the bolts.

   3. DO NOT apply the tape to the glass and DO NOT CUT ON THE GLASS.  You may scratch and shatter the tempered glass!!!

4. Insert the M3 x14 mm bolts and add the stock inserts.

5. Nut Traps.  WARNING!!!

   1. https://www.printables.com/@manio_2862351 Pointed out that the K1 and K1c toolhead can crash into the top hinge nut trap during the homing process.  He brilliantly suggested reusing the stock hinge as a nut trap with shorter screws.

6. Or check the remix files.  There are several thin version nut traps. as well.

7. Or use the printed nut trap and add nuts into the nut traps.

1. Attach the hinges to the door.

2. Attach the hinges to the printer frame.

   1. Carefully put the door into place with the door closed.

   2. Apply tape to hold the door closed.

   3. Use M3 x10 mm bolts to attach the hinges to the side of the frame.

      1. Start with the top most bolt and work your way down.

   4. Remove the tape holding the door closed.

Consider these related addons:

Door Handle by Graffyte

• K1 “Gandle” Door Handle Cap (PIP) by Graffyte Digital Arts | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Door catches by Diablo 

(To hold the door open)

• https://www.printables.com/model/797179-k1-maxk1-k1c-vorlon-door-catch-for-use-on-printers

• https://www.printables.com/model/786556-k1-max-k1-k1c-penwald-door-catch-270-degree-hinge

PLEASE CLICK THE LIKE BUTTON

This took me a couple days to design, test and document. Likes and downloads help me earn Prusament. Thank you.

Other hinges

I had several other issues with the other hinge models so I created my own from scratch.

Featured Differences:

• Fixed the issue where the mounting bolt holes don't fit correctly.

• Fixed the issue where the print in place hinges are out of alignment with the frame and eachother.

• Fixed the issue where the original hinges needed an additional spacer to get the door to close properly.

• Added gears so the teeth hold the weight of the doors spread across a wider area.

• Added a second pivot point. 

  • The original hinges had a single pivot point sticking out away from the printer frame.  

  • The geared hinge can hug the Chamfered frame of the printer while still being able to open 270 degrees.  

• Appearance changed from a clunky Frankenstein mod to a sexy Steampunk style.

Want to make a Remix:

If you are an OnShape user then here is the link to the document you can copy. 

Disclaimer:

Use these models at your own risk.  They are part of an experimental modification for your printer and may cause damage or injury.  There is no warranty implied or otherwise.