May 1, 2026
Description
Added Breech - Lifter Nut v2.stl, Breech - Lifter Bolt v2.stl, and Breech - Lifter Pin [x2].stl
These replace the old Breech lifter parts, should fix issues with the nubs shearing.
Insert the pins into the lifter parts with the slot-side in, and glue them securely.
Updated the Catch Lifter.stl file to eliminate the trigger sticking issue reported by users.
This is the Yeethamer: a bolt-action, breech-loading, single shot, Silly Shell ejecting shotblaster.
Well, I say single-shot, but with Silly Shells by @Sillybutts, even a single shot can be upwards of 6 darts all at once. The versatility of these amazing shells means the Yeethammer can handle just about any situation you throw it into.
Aesthetically I took a lot of cues from various mecha designs … this extends into the build process itself. Hopefully it's as fun to build as it is to use, and there's some details internally that you won't ever see unless you build one yourself.
Licensed hardware kits can be separately purchased from the following vendors in either imperial or metric varieties.
(US) Bear at: BearsWaresUS.
(Australia) at: Captial 3D via hardware partnership with BearsWaresUS.
(US) SilverFox Industries
(US) ButlerFabrication
(US) PhoemBlasters
PotatoFeederNerf (requires printing some modified parts available on the vendor listing)
The following vendors will never be licensed to sell kits or parts related to the Yeethammer (or any of my designs). I personally avoid them even in a consumer capacity.
Frontline Foam (FLF)
XFox Games
You must have a printer capable of a minimum print volume of 180mm x 180mm and 160mm high. That said, I recommend having a print bed that is a minimum of 220mm x 220mm … that way you don't need to purchase and drill the aluminum bars.
180mm x 180mm requires the aluminum bars. For a drill guide, you can split one of the printed bars in your slicer to fit your bed, and then use it as a guide for drilling the aluminum bars.
220mm x 220mm can use the printed bars instead … and I very much so recommend these because they're cooler and more than sufficient for structural stability. All my builds have used the printed bars.
The build you see here was printed on a Bambu X1C and a 0.4mm nozzle. Inland PLA+ was used for all printed parts. The folders are named such that they include the recommended wall count and infill for all the parts inside that folder. Parts with a [x{number}] in the file name indicate you need to print that many copies of them (e.g. “Nut Clip [x4]” needs 4 copies printed). Additionally, I recommend printing at at least the following layer settings for all parts:
Layer Height: 0.20mm
Top Layers: 5 (1mm)
Bottom Layers: 5 (1mm)
The parts are pre-oriented, and should require no supports. Brims or other layer adhesion features are up to user discretion, I printed mine with generally no brims (occasionally some mouse-ear brims).
See the BOM for additional notes, and these videos can be used as a build guide until such a time as I get a better one put together. I recommend using the Unofficial Official Build Guides below, and only watching the linked playlist if you really feel like it. Warning: the long video has no sound.
Current playlist: Yeethammer - Assembly Help
Included is an additional MXL cutting guide that will help cut MXL darts down to 80mm … this length is my personal preference as they look really good in Silly Shells at that length, and perform better than full length MXL darts. That said, full length MXL darts work absolutely fine in the Yeethammer.
Useful for assembling the blaster before the final build guide has been published.
This blaster explicitly supports LGBTQ+ rights. 10% of the sales are donated to The Trevor Project and Lambda Legal.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Spyr
