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Mask Animegao Kigurumi 3D Printer File Image 1
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Mask Animegao Kigurumi

HelenaLove avatarHelenaLove

September 10, 2018

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Description

** NOTE **
An updated version of this mask which is more practical and, I think, cuter can be found here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6601078 Also there's a hard hair version of 3.5 here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6874595

** UPDATE **
Files now include a new improved version of mask_cut_eyes.stl . I've printed and painted this mask and its a significant improvement on the solid eyes version especially for wearer visibility. It's the mask with the blonde hair in the pics.

This is original design Animego Kigurumi / Doller whole head mask for 3d printing, it’s supposed to look like a generic anime character, not any specific one.

It’s a big print. I’ve included 2 versions of the full mask, mask_cut_eyes.stl and mask_solid_eyes.stl. With the open eye’s version you’ll have to make and mount your eye pieces on the inside of the mask. This option allows you most customisation with vision slits and holes. The solid eye version allows you to print the eyes on paper and glue them on the top of the mask. There are vision slits on where the eyebrow and eye fold would go. This version is simpler to put together (and it’s the version I printed), but be warned, your actual vision with the mask on will be very very limited.

The mask is scaled to fit a large (61cm circumference) adult head, if you are smaller than that you might want to scale it down a little. But don’t go too far, you still have to get your head in it.

You can print the whole mask on a CR-10 or similar sized printer in one go, if you have a few days to spare. But if you don’t, I’ve provided a cut up front, top, bottom and back pieces which can be printed on something smaller and take less time. Actually what I would recommend you do is take the mask (mask_cut_eyes or mask_solid_eyes, which ever you prefer) and import them into Meshmixer (free from Autodesk) and cut it up as you see fit. I actually cut mine into 11 pieces because I didn’t want any part to take more than 7 hours to print (I don’t like leaving my printer on over night or while I’m at work), but that was probably a mistake, more parts = more seams to cover up when you’ve assembled it. Fewer parts will result in less post processing work.

There’s no registration between the parts and the walls are quite thin (2.5mm on average) so assembling the parts is quite tricky. Again another reason to use fewer of them.

Also please note, a Kig mask is not an absolute beginner project, if you don't know how to use your printer, set up your slicer, sand, glue and paint prints and so on, this isn't the project for you. Please take some time to learn about your tools and practice making stuff first.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial

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