Made a clamped mount for my Steam Deck XL so it can hang over where my mouse is. The OK stands for overkill, because of the number of screws and bolts it requires, and because it's designed to attach to a metal tiger c-clamp.

Demo and Assembly at https://youtu.be/yqMF7dH5dKk

Parts and Tools

• Tiger c-clamp
  • x1
  • Make sure to get one that has the appropriate height for the lip you're clamping to. It should have M10 threads on the center of the side wall.
  • Short Jaw on Amazon
  • Long Jaw on Amazon
• M10x16 Pan Head Screw
  • x1
  • Mine had a 6mm hex-drive
• M8x45 Socket Head Screw
  • x1
  • It's fine if it's a little longer than 45mm. In the video, mine is 50mm.
• M3x10 Socket Head Screws
  • x4
• M3x16 Socket Head Screws
  • x4
• M3x30 Screws
  • x6
  • Head doesn't matter as long as it isn't countersunk
• M3 Hex Nuts
  • x8
• M2x10 Socket Head Screws
  • x8
• M2 Hex Nuts
  • x8
• 30x10x3 Rare Earth Magnets
  • x4
• M4x5 Grub Screw
  • x1
  • Can be a little longer or shorter

Printing

There are two types of models, non-aux and aux. The aux models aren't part of the official model, but are plastic replicas of the parts that should be metal hardware. The aux parts will not be covered, and they're not recommended for printing (and it's questionable if I should have even included them).

All parts should already be oriented correctly so that the correct side is lying on the bed when printed. Supports are not needed, but are optional for a couple of parts. It will be mentioned in the listing if it's optional.

• TopPlate
  • x1
  • Supports optional (for inside of the magnets socket)
• BottomPlate
  • x1
  • Supports optional (for inside of the magnets socket)
• HingePlate
  • x1
• ConnectorPlate
  • x1
• Connector
  • x1
• HingeJoint
  • x1
• HingeBracket
  • x1
• Strut
  • x2
  • Can be remixed to different lengths to adjust the facing angle.
• Knob
  • x1, choose one of the two options:
    • Knob_4Lobe
    • Knob_KnurlDial
• ClampFoot (optional)
  • x1

Assembly

See project video for demo of assembly.

Mounting Plates Subassembly

1. Sandwich together the TopPlate and BottomPlate, so that their magnets sockets line up.
2. Open up the sandwich briefly to place the magnets inside. TEST DOCKING THE STREAM DECK TO MAKE SURE THE POLARITIES ARE CORRECT.
   • The magnet sockets have a lot of vertical tolerance and will probably rattle, place a few small layers of paper, or putty, into the bottom of the socket to secure them.
3. Place the M2 nuts that are on the BottomPlate.
4. Screw in the M2 screws through the TopPlate to thread the M2 nuts and hold the plates together.
5. Place the M3 nuts into the TopPlate.
6. Place the HingePlate on the BottomPlate. The outline shape and screw bores should align, and the protruding bottom part should face away.
7. Screw in the M3x16 screws to thread the M3 nuts on the top plate.
   • The screws should not go past the top surface of the TopPlate. Loosen them if they do. If these are overtightened, they can stick out too far and scratch the back surface of the Stream Deck when it's mounted.

Hinge Stand Subassembly

1. Place the M3 nuts into the ConnectorPlate.
2. Align the ConnectorPlate and Connector with each other. The ConnectorPlate protrusions should face away from the Connector`. Their screw bores should line up.
3. Screw in the M3x10 screws through the Connector, and into the nuts on the ConnectorPlate to hold them together.

Clamp Subassembly

1. Attach the HingeJoint and tiger c-clamp to the HingeBracket, into the slots where they fit, so that their bores line up.
2. From the side of the HingeJoint, insert the M10x16 and thread them to the c-clamp to fasten them all together.

Final Assembly

1. Connect the tops of the Mounting Plates and Hinge Stand so their top bores line up. Make sure to orient them so their outlines match.
2. Place 2 M3x16 screws through the top bores, from the outside-inward. The head of the screws should be opposite of the ">|" feature.
   • The side with the ">|" is a little more narrow than the rest of the bore so it can self-tap and grip the plastic and lock the screw in place. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or else it can easily strip this plastic.
3. At the bottom, insert one Strut at both ends. They should be placed so that their ">|" features align with the other plates.
4. Place the rest of the M3x16 to thread the Struts to the plates.
5. Take the clamp subassembly and fit it to the Connector. so that the M8 bores of the HingeJoint align with the long slot of the Connector.
6. Thread the M8 screw the HingeJoint to hinge the Hinge Stand and Clamp subassembly together.
   • Do not tighten screw. Thread just enough to loosely connect them together.
7. If your c-clamp has a loose nut, move it to the top of the clamp screw.
8. Place your chosen knob model on the nut shape at the end of the clamp screw. Make sure its seated as deep as it can go.
9. Insert the M4 grub into the bore on the knob, thread and tighten until you feel light-to-moderate resistance.
   • DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN, AS THIS CAN STRIP THE BORE.
10. Optional, place the ClampFoot onto the bottom of the clamp's foot.

Usage

1. Insert c-clamp section into the lip you want to install it at.
2. Press the clamp into the side of the lip so that it's flush, and turn the knob to tighten. Tighten so that it's held firmly in place, but do not fully tighten yet.
3. Move and rotate the stand into the desired direction and offset.
4. Tighten the M8 screw to hold the mount into place.
   • Tap the mount as you would the Stream Deck buttons to see if it holds in place.
5. Push the assembly back into the wall of the lip if it has shifted - and now you can fully tighten the clamp.
6. Attach the Stream Deck XL to the mount.

Notes on the Metal Hardware

The design is meant to be used with a metal tiger c-clamp, but if anyone is curious, replicas for plastic versions are also included. The c-clamp is a modified version of joehann's G-Clamp fully printable, except modified to be compatible with the M10 standard. These models files will have an "aux" prefix. And they will not be supported (beyond being compatible with their originals).

I do not recommend using plastic versions of the hardware. Or at least versions that are direct replicas. A better route would probably be to redesign the hinge and clamp with more heft to account for being 3D printed (which would be an exercise for someone else, I'm just spit-balling here).

Misc

Source file is included. To get the full editing view, use Blender 4.0 (do not use 4.1 or higher, as there are plugin issues) along with the Precision Bolts addon, which was used to make the threads.

The knurled knob is also a modified version of joehann's clamp - it's a scaled up and trimmed version of the original.